Having spent the last 6 days recovering from a mild chest infection, we are finally ready to start going back up to Camp 2 for our second rotation on the mountain to get operated for a possible summit bid.
We are going to head directly to Camp 2 leaving at 3 am in the morning. the goal is to get through the ice fall by 7:30 am and be in Camp 1 by 8:30 am. Then we will continue onto Camp 2
The goal is to be there by 11 am. The reason for leaving that early is that is the time the ice fall is the most stable.
The weather has been windy the last 5 days stripping most of the snow off the upper mountain. That appears to be changing over the next 5 days with higher level convection coming in from the Jet stream causing snow to fall on the upper mountain which makes the Lhotse face a little more stable and less subject to rock fall. The route to C3 has been changed in the last two days because of the winds and rock fall. The new route is a little longer in distance but it is much safer given the condition of the mountain. the route to the South Col has not been established yet for this year. The goal is to have it established by May 7th, then If possible the route to the summit by May 11th. The route fixing is done by a collaboration of the teams on Everest with each team committing man power for carrying ropes, fixing the route (rope guns), and other supplies like oxygen, tents and food. It is really amazing how the teams work together at this phase of the expedition.
Our plan will have us at C2 for two nights,then ascend the Lhotse face to C3 for one summit by night. Descend to C2 for 1 more night then descend to BC. After that we might goo down to Dingoboche for a recovery rest for 2-3 nights depending on how we are feeling after this rotation.
Climb arid, Climb High, Come Home,